Book

Concepts of pattern grading: techniques for manual and computer grading

by  Kathy K Mullet / Carolyn L Moore / Margaret Prevatt Young

Table Of Contents

  • Pattern grading fundamentals
  • Anthropometric surveys
  • Sizing standards
  • Grading systems
  • Major differences in grading systems
  • Complexity of the body
  • Pattern grading terminology
  • Pattern terminology
  • Grading terminology
  • Grade distribution
  • Cross (width) grades
  • Length grades
  • Grading methods
  • Grading on the catesian graph
  • The cartesian graph
  • Numbering cardinal points
  • Pattern orientation
  • Variations in pattern orientation
  • Developing grade rules
  • Cumulative grades
  • Pattern block-grade distributions
  • Grading a size range
  • Grade rule table
  • Computerized grading
  • Unit of measurement
  • Grading increment values
  • Relative grading and incremental grading
  • Production patterns
  • Manual, machine, and computer grading
  • Manual grading
  • Block movement method for manual grading
  • Moving the pattern block
  • Marking cardinal points
  • Measurement method for manual grading
  • Blending in manual grading
  • Check corresponding seam lengths and notches
  • Machine grading
  • Mounting pattern block in grading machine
  • Moving the pattern block
  • Marking, blending, and checking graded size
  • Computer grading
  • Pattern preparation
  • Digitizing
  • Pattern input and pattern information
  • Entering grade rules into the computer
  • Assignment of grad rules
  • Nested graded pattern
  • Plot graded patterns
  • Grading the basic pattern blocks
  • Grading procedures
  • Pattens graded in this chapter
  • Bodice front
  • Bodice back with shoulder dart
  • Sleeve
  • Skirt front
  • Skirt back
  • Pant front and back
  • Sleeve / bodice combinations
  • Kimono sleeve with overarn seam pattern orientation and grade rules
  • Kimono sleeve with underarm
  • Raglan sleeve
  • Design variations
  • Princess bodice
  • Full-roll collar
  • Circle skirt : manual grading
  • Circle skirt : computer grading jumpsuit
  • Surplice bodice
  • Effects of grading on garment style and proportion
  • Grading using multiple x, y axes
  • Orientation of multiple grade reference axes
  • Computer applications using multiple x, y, axes
  • Shawl collar bodice
  • Flat collar
  • Briefs with straight crotch
  • Flared skirt
  • Grading stretch garments
  • Stretch garment fit
  • Stretch factor
  • Evaluation of fit
  • Conversion factor
  • Fit experimentation
  • Provedure for grading stretch garments
  • Grading from garment specifications
  • Development of a grade guide from garment specifications
  • Specifications for a key garment areas
  • Calculation formula
  • Grading from specifications : child's garment
  • Alphanumeric grading from specifications
  • Developing an alphanumeric grade
  • Guide from a numerical grade guide
  • Grading men's shirt into alphanumeric sizes small, medium, large, and extra large

Subject

Pattern design / Tables / Dressmaking / Clothing and dress measurements / Tailoring / Clothing trade

Details

Published New York : Fairchild, 2009
Language English
Material xvii, 220 p.
ISBN 1563676974 / 9781563676970
Location
TCDC Bangkok - General Collection
TCDC Bangkok - Closed Stack

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