Book

Perfume: joy, obsession, scandal, sin : a cultural history of fragrance from 1750 to the present

Also Known As: Joy, obsession, scandal, sin

by  Richard Howard Stamelman

Table Of Contents

  • The scented imagination: perfume in everyday lfe
  • The radiance of perfume
  • Perfume in everyday life
  • Perfume and the Plague: The scent of Epidemics
  • Experiencing perfume: The mechanics of smell
  • Perfume and the representation of history and culture
  • Fragrance in art
  • The betrayal of perfume: John Donne
  • The empire of perfume: scent in Nineteenth-century French culture
  • The Napoleonization of perfume
  • The smells of streets and bodies
  • Aristocratic and Bourgeois "Airs," 1815-1851
  • The growth of advertising
  • Scenting the everyday: bottles, labels, cards, calendars, and fans
  • Perfume becomes Napoleonized again
  • Charles Baudelaire and the music of perfume
  • The scents of sight
  • The simulation of perfume
  • Perfumes of paradox
  • The aromas of "Infinite Expansion": Musk, Ambergris, Benzoin, and Frankincense
  • The music of perfume
  • Fragrant vessels of memory
  • The perfumes of otherness
  • The scent of a woman: perfume and passion
  • Traces, vapors, and arabesques: woman as scent in the Fin de Siecle (1880-1914)
  • Nature as decor
  • Fragrant walls of gass: the art nouveau bottle
  • Woman as objet d'Art
  • The symbolist poetry of perfume: Albert Samain and Stephane Mallarme
  • Poetry, perfume, and suavity: Count Robert de Montesquiou
  • Perfume at the 1900 Paris world exhibition
  • "Perfumed Flutterings": scents and memories in Charles Cros and Emile Zola
  • The spectacle of scents: woman as advertisement
  • Oedipal scents
  • Symbolist and art nouveau perfumes: 1880-1914
  • The scents of surrealism
  • The Knowing Nose
  • The surrealist nose
  • The Eros of rose
  • Woman as atomizer
  • The "Lancom-ization" of poetry: Paul Eluard and Poeme
  • Surrealism's "sex perfumes"
  • The fragrant Garconne (1920-1950)
  • The perfume pavilion
  • From art deco to modernism: perfumes of the roaring twenties and the hollow years
  • Jazz age ads: from Arpege to Cuir de Russie, Vol de Nuit, and Golli-Wogg
  • The garconne's perfume: Coco Chanel's No. 5
  • Babette and "Bourjois" Chic
  • Colette, the "Olfactory Novelist"
  • Proust and the Remembrance of Odors Past
  • Perfume and the politics of the far right: Francois Coty
  • The game of perfume
  • Perfume and joy after the war
  • The Eros and Thanatos of scents
  • Pheromones of love
  • The psycho-pathology of scent: mania, L'Interdit, and the erotics of bondage
  • The seduction of slogans
  • Guerlain's tales of passion and love: Mitsouko, Shalimar, and Samsara
  • Orgasm, fetidness, and death
  • Perfume as opium
  • X-rated perfume ads
  • The postmodern scents of loss
  • Fragrant narratives: The stories perfumes tell (1950-2006)
  • The detection of scent
  • Perfume and barbarity: The holocaust
  • The odor of misanthropy: perfume and murder
  • Death by perfume
  • Narrative visions of scent: The advertising, televising, and filming of perfume
  • Endnotes
  • Selected bibliography
  • Index

Subject

Social aspects / History / Perfumes / Perfumes industry

Details

Published New York : Rizzoli, 2006
Language English
Material 384 p.
ISBN 0847828328 / 9780847828326

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